Day 25 - Ephesus

My tour guide's mood and excitement level was distinctly low today, the day after the terror attacks. He told us that this group is probably the last tour group for him, and that he and the driver would probably be unemployed very shortly. The whole day felt a bit awkward for me, as everyone in the tour group wasn't shaken up as much as he was, still in our vacation mode, giggling and joking around, while our guide explained things with noticeably less enthusiasm.

We started off the tour by visiting a Turkish carpet weaving center. We were greeted by a man speaking very good english (something rare in Turkey), and he explained to us how the carpets were made, from start to finish.He explained to us how the silk was collected from the cocoons and how it was woven into silk threads. There were several ladies working the loom, and some of us got to try making the knots on the carpets. Then the knots were packed, trimmed, and the next row starts. Each 'pixel' of a carpet was woven manually by hand, and a large size carpet with elaborate design could take several years to complete, costing tens of thousands of dollars. And as expected, at the end, we were shown several carpets, and the sales pitch started.

Turkish carpet weaving.

Somehow we got separated into 3 groups: me, the American couple, and the 4 New Zealanders, and each group were assigned a Turkish carpet sales guy. I was in this situation before, but because these carpets were so expensive, and because I was with a group, and because I was sent here through our tour, I didn't feel that much pressure to buy. The sales guy "taking care of me" tried to narrow in on what I was interested. I picked out a few medium sized carpets, then picked out a few designs and colors I liked, then he transferred me to another show room, with another young Turkish guy who rolled out several carpets of similar size, design, and color. I finally picked one out, and he offered $2450 for it. I didn't show any interest in buying. The prices went lower by 500, then final offer of $1500. When I still didn't bite, he simply said thanks and I walked away. It was a decent experience for me and I didn't feel that uncomfortable in the process.

Then we went to Ephesus. I was surprised to learn that only 15% of the city has been excavated, and it would take about 400 years to complete the rest of the 85%. Even still, there was enough of the city exposed for us to get a feel for the place. We saw temples for Hadrian, Domitian, gates for Hera, and statues Nike, Athena, and Hermes. We were able to walk around the baths, the latrines, the parliament, the theater, the main streets, and finally the library of Celsus (the govorner of Ephesus). The library is the most impressive structure of the site, and it's the 3rd largest in Antiquity (first two in Alexandria and Pergamon).

Ephesus.

A lot of tourists today. There was a giant cruise ship docked in the nearby port, so that's where these people are probably coming from.

View of the theater. 220 degrees of seating.

Vomitorium - leads to the upper seats in the theater.

When I was in the Art History museum of Vienna, I remember seeing room after room full of beautiful artifacts -- statues, columns, tombs, reliefs --  and the description said they were from Ephesus. In fact, it was a huge section of the museum only for Ephesian artifacts. It was very awe-inspiring to walk in the same city that produced these magnificent works of art.

Library of Celsus.

Sitting in front of the Library of Celsus.

Columns in the agora of Ephesus. There would be a roof overhead on top of these columns, and these would hold the various shops. In the center (left of the columns) would be the area for animal and slave trade.

Got stuck in a torrential rain. Lasted for about 30 minutes, non stop -- these kinds of rain in Georgia lasts about 5-10 minutes, max.

Day 25 - Çanakkele -> Troy -> Pergamom -> Kusadasi

As I sat down to write about the day in my hotel room in Kusadasi, a coastal town about 8 hours from Istanbul by car, I heard about the terror attack in Istanbul Airport on TV. Turkey tourism has been severly hurt from the terror attacks in the past few years. The tour that I'm on, at it's peak, would be a group of 40 people on a large bus. But now it's been whittled down to 9 people in a smaller van. Our guide said his tour company has sold off all of their large buses, because they don't really see it picking up any time soon. In some cities, more than 60% of the hotels have closed down. With this latest attack, Turkey has been dealt a huge blow to their tourism economy.

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This morning, we started off the day visiting the ancient city of Troy, famous for Homer's Illiad and Oddessey. I learned that there has been 9 cities of Troy, all built on top of one another. The Trojan War was fought on the 6th Troy. The 7th and 8th Troys were of Greek, and the 9th Troy was Roman.

The signposts identify the layers of Troy (I - IX).

Diagram showing the 9 layers of Troy.

Carefully excavated sections of Troy

The actual horse used to enter Troy, disguised as a gift from the Athenians. 

There's a whole story about this Austrian "archaeologist" who merely wanted the treasure, and essentially wrecked the whole excavation site to find the treasure. Once he found it, he quickly packed up the treasure, left the site in ruins, and made it a lot more difficult for the real archaeologists to do a proper excavation. He sent most of the treasure to Germany. When Russians sacked Berlin in WWI, half of the Trojan treasures "disappeared" and the other half are now displayed in St. Petersburg. When Turkey asked for these treasures back, the Russians' response is, "We didn't take anything from Turkey."

Next site was Pergamon, one of the great Greek cities on Anatolia, but under Roman rule. It held the second largest library in antiquity (the first being the one in Alexandria), and they also started the book format that we still use today (as opposed to the scroll format of Egypt), mainly because they developed parchment for writing.

The acropolis is a Greek word: acro  meaning high, and polis meaning city. It just means a settlement in high ground, and isn't exclusive to the Acropolis of Athens that we all know about. Pergamon had an acropolis, and we visited that as the second part of our tour.

:wave:

The temples where the priests hung out

Temple of Trajan at the Acropolis of Pergamon.

I didn't know I'd be getting so much ancient Greek and Roman history with this tour, but so far the wealth of information has been amazing. To finish the day, the guide told us the story about the Turks: where they came from (the steppes in central asia), where they moved to (Anatolia) as the Seljuks, how they were forced to accept Islam as the arabs continually attacked them, and eventually rising back as the Ottoman Empire. It's a real complicated history, and I'm barely starting to grasp the main ideas.

Day 24 - Istanbul -> Gallipoli -> Çanakkele

Today starts my 7 day tour of Turkey. There are 9 of us in the tour: a family of four from New Zealand, 2 girls from South Carolina, a couple also from America, and me.

Our tour van.

From the list of cities on the itinerary, the only ones I could recognize, and also look forward to were Ephesus and Cappadocia. The rest of the cities and places didn't ring a bell to me, so I wasn't expecting much. However, as soon as we started our 4.5 hour drive from Istanbul to our first stop, Gallipoli, our tour guide started giving us a brief history of Turkey, starting from Mesopotamia, introducing the various civilizations such as Lydians, Hittites, Ionians, to the Roman Empire, and ending with the Ottoman Empire. It's the stuff I've been trying to read up on, the stuff I've been so interested in. Instantly I knew I was going to love this tour.

First on the agenda is Gallipoli. This was a World War I battle site, and because I'm not a WWI junkie, I wasn't really interested in it and had my expectations set way low. However, the guide explained the Gallipoli campaign very well, and more importantly, all the relevant events that lead up to that point, that I became more and more interested in this site, and about World War I in general.

When looking at a map of Turkey, you see Istanbul straddling the Bosphorus, but to the southwest, you see yet another narrow body of water. I've always wondered why this isn't wasn't talked about as much, as it seems logical that this is the gateway to Istanbul by the sea. Well, Gallipoli was the answer to my question.

View from one of the hills.

What you get from reading Wikipedia articles on various historical events are condensed information on what happened. The participants are listed with detachment, and casualties are presented as mere statistics. But when you hear the accounts from a Turk, when you see the waters that these soldiers sailed across, and when you step on the soil that these men and boys fought and died on, the history feels real and the struggles of the soldiers more palpable.

Monument for the Kiwis, with Mustafa Kemal Attaturk standing by.

There are lots of memorials and cemeteries in Gallipoli. It would take at least a week to see them all.

Moving words of Mustafa Kemal.

Statue of a Turkish soldier carrying the wounded ANZAC soldier.

More cemetaries.

View from one of the strategic hills.

After Gallipoli, we took a short ferry ride across the Dardanelles into Çanakkele, where we checked into our hotel. The sea was very calm, and the swim refreshing. Tomorrow, we'll go back to ancient times -- Troy. But from today, I have a greater understanding of Turkey's modern history, and Gallipoli was an excellent way to start this 7 day tour. The guide said that Istanbul isn't even the highlight of Turkey. I'm very excited for the coming days and really glad I booked this tour to end my month long trip.

Sunset in Çanakkele. Across the Dardanelles, you can see the Gallipoli peninsula.

Day 23 - Istanbul

Ah, Istanbul. If you could name the top 3 most historically rich, historically significant cities in the world, Istanbul would be one of them. From the Ancient Greek civlization to the Roman Empire, the Byzantine and the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul was the center of it all at one point or another. This city was always at the top of my list of places I wanted to visit, and today was my first full day.

First off, I wasn't too spooked out about any possible terrorism before, but pretty much everyone back at home and everyone that I've met on this trip told me to be careful in Istanbul. So now I've gotten rather paranoid, and every time I pass by a crowded area, I wonder if something is going to explode at any moment. Not that that actually prevents me from going any crowded areas, but it is slightly annoying.

Hippodrome. Looks empty.

One of the streets with shops. Where are all the people at?

My hotel is right in the middle of what's called the Old City, which is on the European side, where most of the historical sites are located. I woke up early and went to the hippodrome that houses the two obelisks in Turkey, as well as a broken piece of a bronze helical statue. It's also very close to the Hagia Sophia museum and the Blue Mosque, both which I visited.

Obelisk of Tuthmosis III. 

Walled obelisk.

The Blue Mosque.

One of two Medusa heads in the Basilica Cistern. Upside down to nullify the gaze?

Both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque features these huge dome structures, which is characteristic of Senon, the architect sponsored by Suleiman the Great. He's the man when you're talking about the Ottoman Empire. You see these domes everywhere in Istanbul.

After doing the touristy stuff, I was feeling a bit adventurous. I wanted to go across the Bosphorus and step on Anatolia, the Asian side of Istanbul. I started walking towards the direction, taking any small streets that I came across, but eventually, I realized that I was the only person on the street, and all businesses closed, or the buildings looked abandoned. I felt really uncomfortable, and quickly retraced my way back to the Old City. I decided I should only take big roads when walking around here.

I eventually found a subway station, and decided to just go somewhere, anywhere. Luck would have it, this was the subway that would go under the Bosphorus and take me to the other side of Istanbul! As soon as I got off the train and out into the Asian side of Istanbul, it was complete mayhem. Tons of people walking in all directions, and cars all jam packed, honking, squeezing through narrow spaces, hundreds of people all lined up for something that I couldn't figure out, children playing in the park, people roasting chicken for picnics.

The chaos of Uskudar

So this is the real Istanbul. This is where people live, work, eat, play. I was glad I could leave the Old City and discover and experience this part of Istanbul.

One of the neighborhoods in the eastern (Asian) side of Istanbul.

The Bosphorus, with the Old City in the background.

Cute kitty. Cats and dogs run rampant on the streets.

Fishermen fishing the Bosphorus. And even the lone woman fisherman is at it, too.

Most people don't speak english very well. Actually, most people just don't speak english. And if they do speak it, you better be suspicious. As I was coming back to my hotel, I was looking on my phone to get directions. I was literally few steps from my hotel, when one guy sitting with another person, said, "Excuse me."

I just stared at him, and he continued, "I mean, if you are lost, I can help you find your way." I responded, "I'm just going right here" and pointed to my hotel few feet away. He said, "Oh, we're neighbors!" and offered his hand. I shook it, at which point he kind of grabbed my hand firmly and said, "Come on in, let me show you" and started leading me to his carpet shop situated right next to the hotel.

I released his grip and said, "Wait. You seem like an intelligent man. Let me ask you, why should I, someone who is new to this place, someone who doesn't know anyone here, follow a complete stranger into his building?"

He kind of fumbled and started, "Well, it's because ..."

I interrupted him abruptly, almost rudely. "Think carefully now! I want a good reason."

"I was saying, it's so that we can get to know each other. We can be good friends."

"That's not a good reason. I said I want a good reason, and you didn't provide me with one. I'll give you another chance. Go on, you can do it."

This is how I played out the conversation in my head after coming into my hotel room. What I actually said was, "No thanks" and that was the end of that ordeal. But seriously, I am so infuriated by these kind of people. How many unsuspecting tourists have they scammed? Maybe I'm just getting geared up for my next encounter, when I will actually follow through and give them a hard time about it.

Day 22 - Rhodes -> Santorini -> Istanbul

Ok, Santorini. You win.

In what I thought was going to be a mediocre experience for me in Santorini, this island has exceeded my expectations. Everyone knows the typical image of Santorini: the white washed villas with blue domed roofs on the cliffs against the backdrop of the blue Aegean Sea. For some reason, I had it in my mind that these photos were angled perfectly each time they were taken, with maybe some post processing, and that you can only get this shot at a very specific place in Santorini. I was wrong on all of those accounts.

I arrived landed on the island around 3 PM, in the blazing heat of June. Although the temperatures said it was mid 80s F, it surely felt much hotter, with the humidity, and the reflection of the sun on these really white walls and houses. Even after my shuttle dropped me off "at" my hotel, I still had to walk about 2-3 minutes of steep hills and cobblestone roads to finally reach the building. This is characteristic of this part of town, Fira. Lots of up and down hilly roads, and just walking a few steps will leave you in sweats, more so if you're carrying a heavy backpack.

I first checked out one of the beaches, Kamari. The bus route here is like a star topology. The center is Fira, and from there, you can reach the outskirts of the island, each way typically costing 1.80 EUR. There was about a half a mile of beach, each equipped with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas, and right next to the beds, are the restaurants who own them. The idea is that you buy a drink or a meal, and you can use the beds for free. I wasn't really wanting a tan, so I skipped out and went back to Fira, and for the first time saw the picturesque view of Santorini that I've always seen before. It was really breathtaking.

Sunset was near, and there were a lot of people waiting for that perfect sunset moment to snap their souvenir photo. Even though there were a lot of people, it still didn't take away the charm of the area and the wonderful view. And I instantly realized how wrong I had been about Santorini, and knew why people come here and rave about it.

Sunset in Fira.

Fira.

Dusk in Fira.

Even if there were no white washed villas and restaurants, the natural view of the cliff by itself would have been spectacular. The cute buildings just adds an extra dimension to the panoramic scenery. I felt like I was in a fairy tale, and it wasn't just one spot. You could walk along the coast, and each turn and corner was just as beautiful. I walked along until it got dark, and I turned around to return to my hotel.

I'm glad I visited Santorini. It would have been stupid of me if I avoided this place because of how touristy it was. I'll accept that I've become a coffee/pastry/bread snob. However, I should give some of these places a chance without becoming a "tourist snob."

You can actually hike all the way from Fira to Oia, the northwestern part of the island. I planned to do this early in the morning, because I had a flight to catch in the evening. I started a bit before 7 am, and finally made it to Oia by 10:30 or so. After you leave the town of Fira, you no longer had the shops and villas along the way, but you were still rewarded with the beautiful view of the island itself, and far away in the distance, you could see Oia. And if you turn back, you could see the white and blue of Fira, like a dollop of paint splashed on the magnificent cliffs of the island.

The hike about 6 miles long, and is a bit strenuous, as there are steep hills along the way. I thought it would be a bit less hot and humid in the morning, but even around 8 am, the heat was really intense, and my shirt and pants were soaked with sweat. Normally, I would have hated being so hot and miserable, but the view of the hike really made me disregard my misery. With each stride, I saw a new view of the island, new flora, new villas, and the villas of Oia slowly becoming more and more detailed. 

Starting my hike.

About half way into my hike. Off in the distance is Oia.

Beautiful flowers along the way.

Panoramic view during the hike.

Patch of villas about half way between Fira and Oia.

After reaching Oia, I ate a light breakfast at a bakery consisting of a croissant, baklava, and iced coffee. Then I took a bus back to my hotel and packed up.

Oia. Flowers everywhere.

Oia.

Oia.

Just got into my hotel in Istanbul. I had arranged the hotel to pick me up, and the car they put me in was a large van. The roads coming out of the airport seemed normal, just as you'd find in most big cities, but as we got closer to my hotel, the roads became uncomfortably narrow, just enough to let one car pass by, daring any drivers to make these impossible turns. And it seemed like the concept of "one way streets" doesn't exist here. If two cars are going towards each other, one car must somehow find an empty pocket on the side of the road, or must back up all the way to the last intersection and let the other pass by. There was one time when three cars came together on an intersection, and what followed seemed like a combination of car tetris and choreographed car dance, where maneuvered out of the way to let the other car position itself so that our van could squeeze through, all while pedestrians are walking around us, as if nothing exciting is to be seen here. I would go insane before I could drive in these conditions.

Day 20 - Athens -> Rhodes

I decided, rather spontaneously, to visit one of the Greek islands. The question was, which one? There were many attributes to look for: food, hiking, beaches, natural scenery, history, night life, etc. However, one attribute which most people don't pay attention to is how touristy the island is. I feel like if I visit a touristy place, I'm not getting the genuine experience of the place, but merely a capitalistic facade for my money to be siphoned. Because of this reason, I wanted to avoid Santorini and Mykonos, the two most popular island destinations. My main choice was Crete, but because the island was so huge, I was over whelmed with choices (where to stay, what to do). So I decided on a smaller one, Rhodes, mainly for its history.

Medieval section of the town

While walking around the historical medieval part of the town, even though it was very touristy, with the souvenir shops and the restaurants lined up along the streets, there were many areas where it was really quiet, and you could really see and feel the history of the town. Most of the structures were built in the medieval era. The fortification walls were especially daunting. I couldn't imagine how any army could breach the walls and the steep cliffs.

Daunting fortifications

The harbors and the ocean side walk was also scenic and pleasant, with a strong sea breeze cooling my sweat soaked body. The water was very clear, and I could see the bottom, even with all the boats docked. In the distance, I could see the outlines of the Turkish mountains. With Turkey being so close by, I could see how ancient Rhodes expanded itself temporarily to mainland Turkey.

Clear blue water

A boat selling trinkets

Instagram filtered

View of the harbor and the walls

This is probably my second favorite place after Norway. Although there were a lot of touristy areas, I didn't feel so detached from its natural beauty and history. I've decided to give Santorini a shot. Because I had already booked my flight and hotel to Istanbul, I have to cancel that, and rebook the hotels, which is a waste of money and time because none of my bookings were refundable. But I'm not sure when I'll ever get a chance to visit this part of the country again, so I figured the slight slippage in money won't matter in the long run.

Standing in front of the harbor entrance.

Also visited the Valley of the Butterflies as a side half-day trip. There is a certain smell from the trees in this valley that these butterflies are attracted, so that's where they all end up. But because it was so hot and humid in the valley, it has limited my enjoyment somewhat. I now realize just how important weather plays a factor into traveling, and I will definitely keep this in mind for my next traveling plans.

The butterflies are all resting on the tree branch. More colorful when they're flying about.